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Showing posts with label modern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label modern. Show all posts

04 September 2011

New Belt Buckle Series

Hello Everyone!

Yes, I'm still here! Sorry for the big gap in between postings. I have been feverishly working on a series of new belt buckles and it's been quite exciting! I explore a couple new techniques in the buckle creation one of which I'm quite familiar with, i.e. bent lamination. I used bent lamination extensively as seen below in my graduation chair project from the Fine Furniture Program offered at Camosun College in Victoria, BC.
The second technique that I employ in the buckles is the use of colored epoxy resin inlays. It sounds like a difficult process but once you achieve the right mix and color it is actually quite a fun process. Now I'll share a few pictures of what I have been up to these past few weeks. So hope you enjoy!

PS...these belt buckles are available for purchase at  http://www.etsy.com/shop/mokajadedesigns




Chou Chair-grad project a true labor of love!

The curve adds dimension to an otherwise flat piece of wood.





The buckle back hardware is attached using epoxy and is also screwed in place for added strength




Thanks for looking!
Roshaan    

25 July 2011

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - The Reveal

Hi Everyone,

Here are the completed frames! I think they turned out great! The mat that the client will use will be different since she wanted to match the mat to the photos that will eventually live in them. A lighter color mat will make the interior orchid stand out more.  This is just an idea of how the vertical will balance with the horizontal. I hope she enjoys them for a long time to come. 











Thank you for joining me for this exciting project! I hope you will join me next time for more adventures in woodworking :)

Roshaan

18 July 2011

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part final

Hello everyone,

Well this is it folks! The final part of the custom orchid frames. I had a great time with these and I hope my client will enjoy it just as much. 


Dipping the orchid in a rich walnut dye. Dipping the piece allows all the edges of
all the cutouts to be stained evenly. I had to make a shop made container to hold the dye,
since the piece was so large.

To get rid of all the excess stain, I simply place it face up onto some shop towels. This also prevents
excess stain from pooling and drying up in the corners of the cutouts.

I also stain the back of the frame and make sure to stain the interior orchid. 

After the stain has dried, I get the pieces ready to be glued. To ensure perfect alignment,
I made a simple right angle alignment jig.  

To finish off the frame, I veneer the edges. I simply stain the edges afterward to complete the frame.
To protect the frame I apply 3 coats of a spray polyurethane finish.
This completes the project. I hope you will join me for the reveal.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

13 July 2011

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 4

Hi Everyone,

Welcome back to part 4! We're almost there!


 
Here I am getting ready to rout out a recess for the key hole picture hanger.  I choose to  use one hanger
instead of two since it will be easier for the client to hang on the wall. I made a template out of mdf to get
a nice tight fitting recess. 

The routed out recess...we're not done with it just yet.

The recess cleaned up with the template removed.

To complete the recess, I drill some clearance holes for the head of the screw when hung on the wall.
Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

12 July 2011

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 3

Hello,

Welcome back for part 3! I am having so much fun with these frames! 

Now that I have cut the interior orchid and the window of the frame, I carefully remove the top cut-out with
a putty knife. This is a slow process, but it is the safest way I can think of.

I then use the table saw and miter gauge to cut miters on the back parts of the frame. These parts will help to  provide clearance of the picture turns

I glue the mitered parts to the back of the frame, making sure to use cauls to fully adhere the parts. To make the glue up 
go smoothly, I first glue each opposing corner, then complete the glue-up by bringing these two corners together at a later stage.




A detail shot of the miters.




Thanks for looking!

Roshaan






07 July 2011

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 2

Hi Everyone,

Welcome back for part 2 of my newest project!

I attach the top cut-out to the bottom part of the frame using double stick tape.  I use some simple right angle alignment jigs to perfectly align the parts. 

I rout a recess on the back of the frame assembly where the interior orchid  is situated. I  do this so that the orchid will sit directly on the glass. I then fill in the recess with shop scraps to make it level with the back.

I then use the scroll saw to carefully cut out the orchid and the window of the frame. 

Using an mdf template made to fit the frame precisely, I rout the recess or rabbet on the back of the frame which will house the glass, matted picture and back panel. 

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

05 July 2011

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 1

Hi Everyone,

I have an exciting project to share with you! I have been asked to make a pair of 18 inch square picture frames based on my orchid design. The frames will be hung side by side on the wall and one frame will hold a vertical photo while the other will hold a horizontal one. I had to come up with a way to balance the vertical with the horizontal within a square frame (the original design is rectangular and it holds a 4 x 6 photo) so I tweaked my design a bit to accommodate this challenge.
   

My proposal to the client showing the two frames side by side and the full size pattern in background.
The pattern will be temporarily bonded to the top part of the frame.

Using the shop made crosscut sled with a stop block clamped to fence to cut all parts true and square.

Using the drill press to drill blade entry holes for the scroll saw blade. Before I did this however I
taped a scrap backer to prevent tear-out on the back of the cut out. 
At the scroll saw cutting out the pattern. Since this is a large piece I have to  take extra care with my cuts.

The almost completed cut-out with the scrap backer removed. I will temporarily attach the cut-out to the bottom part of the frame to cut out the window and the last orchid.
Please join me next time to see the frames come together!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

12 March 2011

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 7

Hi All,

Well, I am quite pleased with how my first attempt at marquetry turned out. I think I will be doing quite a few more in the future :)



After I successfully completed the raven inlay, I cut a substrate made out of a good quality Baltic birch plywood. I like to use this material for a substrate, because it is very flat, without prominent grain (which could potentially telescope through the thin veneer) and very stable. I elevate the whole assembly by using shop-made t-stands underneath. These come in very handy for panel glue-ups or any glue-up for that matter. The elevation just allows for easier clamping.


After the veneered panel has cured, I use a sharp utility knife to trim the excess flush.



Now it is just a matter of cutting the panel to size using my shop-made crosscut sled on my table saw. This sled gives you very accurate results.


I'm sure everyone has seen me use this method of gluing difficult joinery. It is because there are many gluing surfaces to these dovetails and since the wood glue dries very quickly, it makes for a tricky glue-up when 4 corners are involved. Therefore, I prefer to glue the box in stages.

After each corner has cured, I use a block plane to trim the waste flush.
Please join me next time to see how the boxes come together!
We're almost there!
Thanks for looking!
Roshaan











22 August 2010

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 3




Hello All,

Since I completed the side assemblies in part 2, I was now ready to cut some stopped dadoes ( grooves going across the grain) to hold the bottom and the middle shelves... and rabbets ( a long notch at the top edge of the side assembly) to hold the sub-top.

For this operation I used a hand held plunge router. Since accuracy is very important I had to come up with a way so that these dadoes and rabbets will line up precisely in both pieces. I simply ganged and clamped both sides together, so that I can set up a fence across the whole assembly to rout out perfectly alligned dadoes and rabbets (as seen in top photo).

With a little fine tuning the shelves and sub-top fit quite nicely. The last photo shows all the completed cuts in both corresponding sides. The next step will be to rout a rabbet along the back edges of the sides and top and bottom to receive the back. I will also cut some dadoes into the top and bottom pieces to receive the center gable or divider. Be sure to tune in next time for part 4!

Thanks for looking!


Roshaan

17 August 2010

Cherry Blossom Sideboard - Part 1




Hi All,

As promised, I have been taking in-progress photos of the cherry blossom sideboard build to share with everyone. With any project, especially a large build, organization and preparation is key to the success of it's outcome.
I always start with a detailed drafted working drawing to work out any of the joinery, measurements and proportions before I even
touch a piece of wood. I then like to make a scale model of the piece
to see what the full sized piece would actually look like and to work out any issues with proportions.
After I am satisfied with the proportions of the piece I then go ahead and make a cutting list of materials, which will include the size of all parts, the type of wood to be used and the joinery to be used. I then take these measurements and physically "map-out" or layout each part on the appropriate piece of wood. For example if I use veneered sheet goods (a fancy name for plywood) as seen in the above photos, I use a large square and draw the size of the part with a pencil right on the sheet of plywood and I mark each part. This way I minimize waste.

Before I cut into solid wood, I also let the planks acclimatize to my workshop for at least 3 days to a week if possible. Notice the way I have the project lumber stacked up on my bench with scrap pieces of wood in between each layer. This is done so that the underside of the boards will also receive appropriate airflow.
I also make sure I have my working drawings and cutting list on hand at all times. This will avoid any confusion and waste of materials. And remember to always measure twice...or three...or four times and cut once!

Roshaan




































10 August 2010

Cherry Blossom Sideboard

Hello Everyone!

I am embarking on a new project and I am excited to give you an inside look at the progress. It is essentially a sideboard with two sliding doors and these sliding doors will have a cherry blossom motif scroll sawn into the panels. It also has a modern asian appeal, with tapered legs, beveled top and a "rising cloud" curved bottom rail. I have been asked to design and build this piece to hold piano books, which of course has a particular size which had to be considered. My client has been searching high and low for the right piece with no success. She finally contacted me to see if I could come up with a suitable design. After weeks of mulling over the details of the piece I have successfully come up with a design she was happy with. I will be posting in-progress photos, so please check back for updates.

Roshaan