Hi Everyone!
Well...here it is the finished shelf brackets! The pictures really doesn't do it justice. Hopefully my client will enjoy it a long time to come!
Thanks for joining me!
Roshaan
Gluing the splines in place. I used some of the left over oak and sized them to fit the slots exactly. |
Trimming the splines flush using my appropriately named flush-trim saw. I love this saw! |
The freshly cut recesses for the hangers. Now all I have to do is drill some clearance holes for the heads of the screws. |
At the drill press equipped with a 3/8" diameter drill bit, drilling the clearance holes for the head of the screws . |
A close-up of the cove profile. |
Continuing to cut out the rest. It was neat to see the negative scrolls coming out of the cuts. Hmmm ...I think I will do something with those...unless my client would like them as a souvenir :) |
Checking to see if all the parts are square before I attach the paper patterns |
Not only do I make sure that the wood parts are square I also have to make sure that the patterns are cut square to align to the wood blank |
To join the scroll to the mitered brackets I use dowels in the appropriate sections for added strength. I use a dowel jig to guide the drill bit square and centered into the wood. |
The drilled dowel holes. In this case I am using 3/8" diameter dowels. |
To get rid of all the excess stain, I simply place it face up onto some shop towels. This also prevents excess stain from pooling and drying up in the corners of the cutouts. |
I also stain the back of the frame and make sure to stain the interior orchid. |
After the stain has dried, I get the pieces ready to be glued. To ensure perfect alignment, I made a simple right angle alignment jig. |
To finish off the frame, I veneer the edges. I simply stain the edges afterward to complete the frame. To protect the frame I apply 3 coats of a spray polyurethane finish. |
The routed out recess...we're not done with it just yet. |
The recess cleaned up with the template removed. |
To complete the recess, I drill some clearance holes for the head of the screw when hung on the wall. |
Now that I have cut the interior orchid and the window of the frame, I carefully remove the top cut-out with a putty knife. This is a slow process, but it is the safest way I can think of. |
I then use the table saw and miter gauge to cut miters on the back parts of the frame. These parts will help to provide clearance of the picture turns |
A detail shot of the miters. Thanks for looking! Roshaan |
I attach the top cut-out to the bottom part of the frame using double stick tape. I use some simple right angle alignment jigs to perfectly align the parts. |
I then use the scroll saw to carefully cut out the orchid and the window of the frame. |
Using an mdf template made to fit the frame precisely, I rout the recess or rabbet on the back of the frame which will house the glass, matted picture and back panel. |
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My proposal to the client showing the two frames side by side and the full size pattern in background. The pattern will be temporarily bonded to the top part of the frame. |
Using the shop made crosscut sled with a stop block clamped to fence to cut all parts true and square. |
Using the drill press to drill blade entry holes for the scroll saw blade. Before I did this however I taped a scrap backer to prevent tear-out on the back of the cut out. |
At the scroll saw cutting out the pattern. Since this is a large piece I have to take extra care with my cuts. |
The almost completed cut-out with the scrap backer removed. I will temporarily attach the cut-out to the bottom part of the frame to cut out the window and the last orchid. |