Double Twelve Domino Set - Part 1

Hello Everyone!

First I'd like to wish everyone a very healthy, happy and prosperous 2011!

Like I have promised before, here are a few sneek shots of the double twelve domino set.

All the parts layed out to make the maple top and contrasting walnut bottom. I have grouped 4 tiles together on one rectangular piece of maple.

Using my right angle alignment jig (as seen in my book Simply Wood) to make sure the paper pattern is pefectly positioned on the maple as it is glued down.

At the drill press drilling many, many holes!

Still at the drill press! This time I'm using a countersink bit to champfer the drilled holes to add some dimension to the plain hole.

My gluing station. Gluing the maple top to the walnut bottom using my trusty right alignment jig.

Please return for more sneek shots!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Double Twelve Domino Set Intro

Hi Everyone,

It's been a while since we last met, nonetheless I have been quite busy in the workshop. Since I had to meet a very special deadline for Christmas I have not had the time to really do a full in- process picture documentation of my most recent custom order.

I did however sneek in a few pictures and I will share them with you in a couple of posts.

What I have been working on is a custom set of hardwood double twelve domino set with a sliding lid box. I have done a set before, but it is differs from each other in many ways. The first one only had 28 tiles to make up a double six set. The second set have over 90 tiles to make up a double twelve set. The tile itself is a bit different in the way that the first set had a cut-out line and a dot in the middle of the line to seperate the top from the bottom of the tile. The second set was a bit simpler with only a v-groove line in the center of the tile.

The above photo depicts the double six set that I made. Please check back to see the reveal of the double twelve set at a later stage!

The boxes are different as well. The first set had a maple mitered box reinforced with walnut keys, while the second set had a maple finger-joint box with a divider on the interior of the box for a few pens or pencils.

The double twelve set was meant as a gift to a very lucky set of parents on Christmas day!

I hope they liked it!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Heather's Netbook Cherry wood box-Part Final

Hi Everyone!

Well I am finally done with the netbook cherry wood box! The last week I spent oiling the box with a Danish oil finish. I also finished the box off with a rich plush felt liner to cushion the netbook while it is stored and especially during travel.

I applied about 5 coats of the oil finish over about a week's time. Notice the difference between the unfinished cherry to the left and the cherry with one coat of oil applied to the piece on the right. I love using an oil finish to bring out the natural beauty and richness of the wood's color and grain. Although the cherry is still a bit light in color, over time it will age to a nice reddish tone making the contrast of the maple splines pop even more.

The inside of the box received a felt liner to cushion the netbook. The felt was a breeze to apply because it already had a peel and stick backing. All I had to do was cut the felt parts to the exact dimensions of the inside of the box. I first applied the bottom and then proceeded to apply the sides.

After the felt was applied, I re-attached the stop hinge and the latches. I did however had to clear the dried oil from the screw holes with a drill bit.

I am happy with how the box turned out and I hope my client will be as well.

Thanks for joining me!

Roshaan

Heather's Netbook Cherry wood box-Part 4

Hi Everyone!

The project is really coming together! In this part I will be finishing the top and bottom of the box.

The above photo shows the box basically cut right in half. Notice the little lip that was left during the cut. I got rid of the lip by using a block plane to flush up the edges. I then further cleaned up the edges by sanding it with various grits of sandpaper. Rather than bringing sandpaper to the piece I brought the piece to the sandpaper. I made a sanding base by using a true and flat surface and a full sheet of sandpaper which I attached to the base using temporary spray adhesive.

Remember the panels for the top and bottom I was working on in the first part of this project? Well, since then I cleaned up the panels with various grits of sandpaper and cut it to size using my invaluable shopmade miter sled. Every woodworking shop needs one of these. If made properly, this one tool can yield great accuracy.

After the panels were cut to size, I cut a slight bevel on the edges of the panels. This will give an all around nice reveal as well as prevent the edges from snagging on anything causing aweful chip out.

I then used a couple of spacers to hold the panels in place while the glue sets up. Notice the nice reveal created by the cutting the panel about 1/4" smaller than the inside surface to the top and the bevel further enhances the reveal. I used a maple substrate to create the nice contrasting reveal. This reveal will also complement the contrasting maple splines on the corners of the box.

Bring on the clamps!!! You can never have too many clamps!

In the next part I will focus on installing all of the box hardware. We are almost there! So, join me next time for part 5!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Heather's Netbook Cherry wood box-Part 3

Hi Everyone!

In this part I will be focusing on strengthening the mitered corners of the box. I favour using contrasting splines on the corners, not only for strength but for aesthetics as well. I will also illustrate the method I use for separating the lid from the bottom of the box.

To safely cut the spline slots on the box corners I used a shop made carrier that cradles the box securely while it slides agaist the table saw fence and over the saw blade. I simply used the thickness of the saw blade or kerf of the blade, which is usually about an 1/8" thickness.

Since the spline slot is an 1/8" thick, I also made my contrasting maple splines the same thickness. There are variables in play when you are dealing with multiple cuts such as these. Sometimes the vibration of the blade or maybe the movement of the box in the carrier could make the slot wider or smaller. Therefore I always individually fit each spline to each slot and I glue the splines into the slots one at a time.

After the glue dried, I used a flush trim saw to trim the splines, just proud of the box surface. I then flushed up the splines with a chisel using a paring cut. I then sanded the box sides with various grits of sandpaper to a smooth finish.

After I cleaned up the sides of the box, I separated the lid from the bottom using the table saw. This is a great method, when the box lid is flush to the box bottom. There is no way the lid will line up to the bottom when you attemp to build each assembly separately. Since the lid and bottom of the box was the same height, I simply found the center of the sides and split the line in half on the saw blade. To prevent the parts from binding as it comes apart, I did not cut the sides all the way through. I left a little bit of a lip to help keep the box together.


After all the sides were cut in half, I carefully split the box using a hand saw. I took extra care on this step, since I did not want to cut and ruin the edges.

Wow, this project is going by fast! Please stay tuned for part 4!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Heather's Netbook Cherry wood Box-Part 1

Hi Everyone!


Welcome to part 1 of my new custom request! I love custom pieces, simply because it keeps me on my toes and sometimes it throws you some pretty wacky curve balls. It also gives me great pleasure to know that it will be treasured and well used by my clients for many years to come.


Well, let's get started!





I honestly believe that the process is just as important as the outcome. Therefore I take great care in the preparation of any project. I first start with a drafted drawing as you all know, but I also start with a list of steps or tasks to be completed and in the exact order it needs to be completed. I call it my flow chart. I do this to keep the project in line and on time.

Speaking of which the flow chart for the box told me to first make a panel wide enough for the top of the box. This consisted of gluing up 3 separate boards of wood edge to edge to make the panel large enough. I simply used masking tape to join the boards. I then flipped the assembly over and exposed the seam, by simply using a wooden screw clamp to keep the seam open.

I needed to keep the seam open, so that I could apply some glue to the joint as seen in the above photo.

After the glue was applied, I simply removed the clamp to close up the joint. See the nice bead of glue squeezing out of the joint? This illustrates a successful glue-up! Since I have 3 boards to glue together, I waited for the first pair to cure, before I was ready to glue the final board.

While the glue was setting up on the panels, I then turned my attention to the box sides. I cut the miter joints on the box sides, by using a table saw with the blade tilted at a 45 degree angle. I cut a miter on one end of each side first and then clamped a stop block to miter the sides to the exact same length.

Before I went on to the next step, I did a dry-clamp of the box sides to evaluate the fit of the joints. Everything looked good, so now I was ready to move on...but you'll have to come back for part 2 :)

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Heather's Netbook Cherry Wood Box

Hi Everyone,

Well, the sideboard is done and delivered and now I am on to the next custom order.


With the rapid advance of technology, nowadays you can take your computer with you everywhere...on a boat, a plain, a train, the rest room...well you get the picture. But with that ability comes a concern of how to safely carry it from place to place, without damaging sensitive parts. I have been asked to make a custom cherry wood box with a latch to safely store and carry a newly acquired netbook. It always amazes me how they get a ton of technology into such a tiny space! This netbook measures a whopping 1 1/2" high, by 6 1/2" deep, by 9" long! Wow, what will they think of next...a computer screen that operates with a simple touch :)


The box itself will be constructed using a simple mitered joint, which will then be reinforced with nice contrasting maple splines. It will have two locking latches in the front to keep the netbook securely tucked away in the box. It will also have brass stop hinges, so when the box is opened the lid will stay in place at about a 100 degree angle. To cushion the netbook, I will use a plush rich chocolate brown felt to line the inside of the box.


Boxes are deceptively difficult to construct. Because of it's small size every aspect of the box will be scrutinized and any flaw will be magnetized. So I have to make sure that my joints are nice and tight and that my finish is flawless. This is of course the end result I strive for in all the pieces I make...big or small.


The construction of the box has already begun, so I will be posting in progress pictures very soon. Please come back for part 1 of the netbook box construction.


Thanks for looking!


Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 6

Hi Everyone!

Welcome to part 6 of the Cherry Blossom Sideboard! For this part of the project I concerntrated on building the two sliding frame and panel doors. I also cut a slight bevel on the top.


Since the doors are a fairly large size I had to make sure the joinery will be strong enough to withstand the sliding motion of the doors. First I started with beefy frame members which housed a large panel. In a later part I will overlay the cherry blossom scroll sawn panels onto the finished frame and panel doors.
I then decided on a bridle joint for the doors. This joint is essentially an exposed or open ended mortise and tenon joint. To cut this joint on the table saw, I used a shop made jig equipped with a toggle clamp to safely and securely hold the piece in place, while it is slid over the saw blade. I first started with the mortise or in this case the deep slot, as pictured above.

I then used the same jig to cut the tenon, making sure to measure the slot carefully for a snug fit. This jig is an invaluable and very useful addition to any woodworking shop.

After I cut the bridle joint I proceeded to carefully measure the exact thickness of the panel and transfered this measurement onto the frame members. Using the table saw I cut the grooves on the inside edges of the frame members to receive the center panel. The above photo shows a nice detail shot of one corner of the door assembly including the center panel.

After I was happy with how the door came together during the dry fit, I finally glued and clamped the door.

I also cut a slight bevel on the top to add a nice detail to an otherwise flat rectangular slab of wood. Before I cut the bevel I had to cover the exposed edges of the plywood with 3/4" thick hard maple. I mitered the front corners of the edging for a seamless wrap. The back corners of the edging are simply butted together, since the back edge of the top was not beveled.

In the next part I will assemble and glue the carcass of the sideboard. I will also cut some handy [get it :)] finger pulls in the doors and finally taper the legs.

Phew! We are ALMOST there!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 4

Hi Everyone!

It's been quite a busy week in the workshop. I've made some great progress with the sideboard, as you can see in the photo above. The sideboard is finally taking shape! I have cut dadoes in the top webframe and the bottom piece on center to receive the center gable. I have also cut dadoes in the center gable itself to receive the two shelves.

Since this piece will be stained with a combination of a nice rich walnut dye and a dark ebony stain, I had to consider the natural wear pattern of opening and closing the sliding doors and how it will effect the stained surface. Since the piece is made out of maple which is a lighter color wood, the wear will show stark contrasts between the dark stain and the maple. To solve this issue, I opted to use a darker wood such as a rich walnut for the tracks. This way if the stain is ever effected by the sliding doors, the contrast won't be so visible.

To attach the sliding door tracks to the upper webframe and the bottom piece I used biscuits and glue to make for a strong and solid joint. Biscuits are football shaped wafers (not the eating kind) which are made out of compressed beech wood and when it is glued into a corresponding slot, it swells up to make for a very strong edge to edge joint. To cut these matching slots, I used a power tool appropriately called a biscuit joiner or sometimes refered to as a plate joiner, as seen in the third photo.

After the tracks were glued I had to notch the ends of the tracks to fit around the stopped rabbets and dadoes which was cut into the side assemblies. Since the panels were too large to safely cut the notches on the table saw, I simply cut them by hand. For accuracy I made a very simple

right angle jig which I then positioned on a layout line and clamped to the panel. I then used a flush trim saw to cut out the notches. A simple yet very effective method for cutting notches by hand.

In part 5 I will be cutting the grooves into the tracks for the sliding doors. I will also make a template for the curved bottom rail and use this template and a router to shape the curve.

Thanks for joining me for part 4, stay tuned for part 5!

Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 3

Hello All,

Since I completed the side assemblies in part 2, I was now ready to cut some stopped dadoes ( grooves going across the grain) to hold the bottom and the middle shelves... and rabbets ( a long notch at the top edge of the side assembly) to hold the sub-top.

For this operation I used a hand held plunge router. Since accuracy is very important I had to come up with a way so that these dadoes and rabbets will line up precisely in both pieces. I simply ganged and clamped both sides together, so that I can set up a fence across the whole assembly to rout out perfectly alligned dadoes and rabbets (as seen in top photo).

With a little fine tuning the shelves and sub-top fit quite nicely. The last photo shows all the completed cuts in both corresponding sides. The next step will be to rout a rabbet along the back edges of the sides and top and bottom to receive the back. I will also cut some dadoes into the top and bottom pieces to receive the center gable or divider. Be sure to tune in next time for part 4!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

One-on-one workshop with Lesley

Hello Everyone,

I had a great opportunity to teach a one-on-one woodworking workshop from my modest yet organized garage shop. This workshop was to be a birthday gift for the sister of a great friend of mine. Btw...what a great birthday gift idea! Please take note for future reference :)

Lesley was an ideal student since she had a great passion for anything handmade and she was willing to learn in a very short amount of time. I have to give her credit for sticking with me to the very end of a fun but exhausting 8 hour day. At the end of the day she went home with a great token of her hard work...a lovely keepsake box made out of hard maple with a cherry wood scroll sawn top.

I gave Lesley a few scroll saw patterns to choose from, and she immediately gravited to the elegant, yet intricate dragonfly design. The design was a bit ambitious for a beginner, but I told her she had to be happy with the design since she was planning to keep the box for a very long time. The box sides was mitered which was then further enhanced with cherry splines. Splines not only add strenth to the joint but also dresses up a simple mitered box. There are no visible hinges, because the lid opens with the aid of 1/8" diameter brass pivot pins which is glued with epoxy into drilled holes in the sides of the box.

At the end of the day Lesley was extremely pleased with what she accomplished in such a short amount of time and so was I. I hope she will enjoy the keepsake box for a very long time and will keep it in the family for many more years to come.


Roshaan