Alberta Rose Recipe Box - Part 3

Hi Everyone,

I am making great progress on the recipe box. In this part I will share how to rabbet the top and the bottom parts. Also how to create a routing template to rout out a recess on the inside face of the front part of the box. And finally how to transfer the rose pattern onto the front.

Since we have cut grooves on the inside faces of all sides in part 2, we will be cutting rabbets onto the top and bottom parts to slip into those grooves. The rabbets are simply cut on the table saw using a dado stack and an auxillary wooden fence. I use a wooden fence so that I can bury the dado blade under the fence to get a clean and accurate rabbet.

Since I wanted the rose cut-out to pop, I had to figure out how to introduce a contrasting backer piece to the front. I could have simply applied a full piece of contrasting wood to the inside, but then you will be able to see the contrast on the top edge of the box when it is opened. I wanted a clean and crisp look to all the edges of the box. The best solution was to rout a recess on the inside face of the front where the rose design will be cut. This is easily done by using a routing template, a router, a straight bit and a template guide and bushing set. First I made a simple template out of 1/4" thick mdf. The method pictured above is the most accurate way to create a perfectly square recess.

I then used double stick tape to attach the template to the front piece of the box. I made sure to attach the template to the inside face of the front. I proceeded to rout the recess moving the router in a clockwise direction. I also made sure to make a couple shallow passes, instead on one deep one, which will cause the router and the bit to work extra hard and be a more dangerous operation.

After I made sure that all the routed edges of the recess was nice and smooth without any bumps, I carefully removed the template. I squared up the rounded corners of the recess with a chisel.

I then transfered the edges of the recess with a pencil and square to the outside face of the front. This gave me a reference point for careful placement of the rose pattern. I then used carbon paper to transfer the pattern onto the front. I also had to keep in mind the placement of the latch when I transfered the pattern.

Well that's it for part 3! Please join me next time for part 4!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 4

Hi Everyone!

It's been quite a busy week in the workshop. I've made some great progress with the sideboard, as you can see in the photo above. The sideboard is finally taking shape! I have cut dadoes in the top webframe and the bottom piece on center to receive the center gable. I have also cut dadoes in the center gable itself to receive the two shelves.

Since this piece will be stained with a combination of a nice rich walnut dye and a dark ebony stain, I had to consider the natural wear pattern of opening and closing the sliding doors and how it will effect the stained surface. Since the piece is made out of maple which is a lighter color wood, the wear will show stark contrasts between the dark stain and the maple. To solve this issue, I opted to use a darker wood such as a rich walnut for the tracks. This way if the stain is ever effected by the sliding doors, the contrast won't be so visible.

To attach the sliding door tracks to the upper webframe and the bottom piece I used biscuits and glue to make for a strong and solid joint. Biscuits are football shaped wafers (not the eating kind) which are made out of compressed beech wood and when it is glued into a corresponding slot, it swells up to make for a very strong edge to edge joint. To cut these matching slots, I used a power tool appropriately called a biscuit joiner or sometimes refered to as a plate joiner, as seen in the third photo.

After the tracks were glued I had to notch the ends of the tracks to fit around the stopped rabbets and dadoes which was cut into the side assemblies. Since the panels were too large to safely cut the notches on the table saw, I simply cut them by hand. For accuracy I made a very simple

right angle jig which I then positioned on a layout line and clamped to the panel. I then used a flush trim saw to cut out the notches. A simple yet very effective method for cutting notches by hand.

In part 5 I will be cutting the grooves into the tracks for the sliding doors. I will also make a template for the curved bottom rail and use this template and a router to shape the curve.

Thanks for joining me for part 4, stay tuned for part 5!

Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 3

Hello All,

Since I completed the side assemblies in part 2, I was now ready to cut some stopped dadoes ( grooves going across the grain) to hold the bottom and the middle shelves... and rabbets ( a long notch at the top edge of the side assembly) to hold the sub-top.

For this operation I used a hand held plunge router. Since accuracy is very important I had to come up with a way so that these dadoes and rabbets will line up precisely in both pieces. I simply ganged and clamped both sides together, so that I can set up a fence across the whole assembly to rout out perfectly alligned dadoes and rabbets (as seen in top photo).

With a little fine tuning the shelves and sub-top fit quite nicely. The last photo shows all the completed cuts in both corresponding sides. The next step will be to rout a rabbet along the back edges of the sides and top and bottom to receive the back. I will also cut some dadoes into the top and bottom pieces to receive the center gable or divider. Be sure to tune in next time for part 4!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 2

Hello Everyone,

Well, I am making some progress on this project. I just completed the side assemblies, which consists of the legs, the top and bottom rails and side panels. I used mortise and tenon joinery to attach the rails (the horizontal top and bottom parts) to the legs and I then went ahead and cut a 1/4" deep groove into the legs and rails to receive the side panels. Since the panels and the rails were both 3/4" thick I had to cut a rabbet (notch) along all the edges of the panels to fit into the 1/4" thick groove. This also adds a nice reveal on the outside of the assembly.

The series of photos shows the steps in the order that it was completed.

The top photo shows all the parts layed out exactly how it will eventually be

assembled and glued together. The second photo shows the detail of the joinery including the rabbet along the edges of the side panel. Below that we have a photo of the glue-up of all the parts. I use t-stands to elevate the assembly, for easy gluing and clamping. And voila!...we finally have the side assembly of the sideboard. I will eventually taper the legs after I have cut all the joinery on the inside face of the side assemblies.

It truly is a great feeling to see the outcome of a whole bunch of parts scattered on your bench! I am sure that most woodworkers will agree when I say that the glue-up is the most stressful part of any woodworking project.

But we all love the rush!

Roshaan