Embrace scroll shelf brackets - Part1

Hello Everyone,

I love custom work! It definitely keeps your mind ticking.

My next exciting project is a pair of scrolled shelf brackets made out of oak. My client requested that I take inspiration from a wonderful print called the "Embrace" by Gustav Klimpt which will hang across from the shelf. The print is vibrant with amazing color and wild scrolls and shapes and it's just a visual playground. I lifted a portion of the scroll from the print and gave it my own twist - no pun intended :)

I gave my client quite a few options and she chose the one pictured above. From the 1/4 scale drawings I had to enlarge the chosen pattern to a workable full scale pattern. 

With every hardwood (as apposed to veneered sheet goods) project I like to acclimatize the wood to my workshop for a couple of days before I make my first cut. Keep in mind that it's coming from the lumber yard to my shop and then to my clients home - so it's travelling through various temperatures. 

I have a nice wide piece of oak selected for the scroll and and a narrower board for the mitered brackets. 

I can't wait to get started, so please join me next time for part 2!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 4

Hi Everyone,

Welcome back to part 4! We're almost there!

 

Here I am getting ready to rout out a recess for the key hole picture hanger.  I choose to  use one hanger
instead of two since it will be easier for the client to hang on the wall. I made a template out of mdf to get
a nice tight fitting recess. 

The routed out recess...we're not done with it just yet.

The recess cleaned up with the template removed.

To complete the recess, I drill some clearance holes for the head of the screw when hung on the wall.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 3

Hello,

Welcome back for part 3! I am having so much fun with these frames! 

Now that I have cut the interior orchid and the window of the frame, I carefully remove the top cut-out with
a putty knife. This is a slow process, but it is the safest way I can think of.

I then use the table saw and miter gauge to cut miters on the back parts of the frame. These parts will help to  provide clearance of the picture turns

I glue the mitered parts to the back of the frame, making sure to use cauls to fully adhere the parts. To make the glue up 
go smoothly, I first glue each opposing corner, then complete the glue-up by bringing these two corners together at a later stage.

A detail shot of the miters.




Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 1

Hi Everyone,

I have an exciting project to share with you! I have been asked to make a pair of 18 inch square picture frames based on my orchid design. The frames will be hung side by side on the wall and one frame will hold a vertical photo while the other will hold a horizontal one. I had to come up with a way to balance the vertical with the horizontal within a square frame (the original design is rectangular and it holds a 4 x 6 photo) so I tweaked my design a bit to accommodate this challenge.

   

My proposal to the client showing the two frames side by side and the full size pattern in background.
The pattern will be temporarily bonded to the top part of the frame.

Using the shop made crosscut sled with a stop block clamped to fence to cut all parts true and square.

Using the drill press to drill blade entry holes for the scroll saw blade. Before I did this however I
taped a scrap backer to prevent tear-out on the back of the cut out. 

At the scroll saw cutting out the pattern. Since this is a large piece I have to  take extra care with my cuts.

The almost completed cut-out with the scrap backer removed. I will temporarily attach the cut-out to the bottom part of the frame to cut out the window and the last orchid.

Please join me next time to see the frames come together!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Alberta Rose Recipe Box - Part 4

Hi All,

In this part of the project I will focus on scrolling out the rose design. I will be using the drill press equipped with a 1/16" diameter drill bit to drill the blade entry holes. I will also cut a walnut backer piece to insert into the recess that was routed out in part 3. So let's get started!

As you will soon see, all interior cuts in a particular pattern or design requires a hole for the scroll saw blade to be threaded through. This rose design is no different. I do recommend that you use a drill press instead of a hand held drill to perform this task. A drill press will give you much better accuracy and ensures that the hole is drilled at a perfect right angle to the work piece. This accuracy is very important with a delicate design such as this. I always use a scrap backer piece to prevent awful tearout at the back of the piece.

For this design I used a # 2/0 blade since the cuts are so fine. I always like to start with the most delicate cuts first, if at all possible. It's always a good idea to leave larger surface interior cuts for the very last.

Voila! Here we have the finished rose cut-out! Not too shabby huh?

Now to the back of the cut-out. Remember the recess I cut in an earlier part? Well now would be a good time to fill it. I cut a nice piece of contrasting walnut to the exact dimensions of the opening on the tablesaw.

However, before I was ready to glue it in place I had to clean up the back of the cut-out. I simply got rid of any burrs by giving the back a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Well that's about it for this part. Please return for part 5 of the Alberta Rose Recipe Box, when I will be ready for the big glue up!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Alberta Rose Recipe Box - Part 3

Hi Everyone,

I am making great progress on the recipe box. In this part I will share how to rabbet the top and the bottom parts. Also how to create a routing template to rout out a recess on the inside face of the front part of the box. And finally how to transfer the rose pattern onto the front.

Since we have cut grooves on the inside faces of all sides in part 2, we will be cutting rabbets onto the top and bottom parts to slip into those grooves. The rabbets are simply cut on the table saw using a dado stack and an auxillary wooden fence. I use a wooden fence so that I can bury the dado blade under the fence to get a clean and accurate rabbet.

Since I wanted the rose cut-out to pop, I had to figure out how to introduce a contrasting backer piece to the front. I could have simply applied a full piece of contrasting wood to the inside, but then you will be able to see the contrast on the top edge of the box when it is opened. I wanted a clean and crisp look to all the edges of the box. The best solution was to rout a recess on the inside face of the front where the rose design will be cut. This is easily done by using a routing template, a router, a straight bit and a template guide and bushing set. First I made a simple template out of 1/4" thick mdf. The method pictured above is the most accurate way to create a perfectly square recess.

I then used double stick tape to attach the template to the front piece of the box. I made sure to attach the template to the inside face of the front. I proceeded to rout the recess moving the router in a clockwise direction. I also made sure to make a couple shallow passes, instead on one deep one, which will cause the router and the bit to work extra hard and be a more dangerous operation.

After I made sure that all the routed edges of the recess was nice and smooth without any bumps, I carefully removed the template. I squared up the rounded corners of the recess with a chisel.

I then transfered the edges of the recess with a pencil and square to the outside face of the front. This gave me a reference point for careful placement of the rose pattern. I then used carbon paper to transfer the pattern onto the front. I also had to keep in mind the placement of the latch when I transfered the pattern.

Well that's it for part 3! Please join me next time for part 4!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Cherry Blossom Sideboard Part 8 final

Hi Everyone,

This is it! The final part to the cherry blossom sideboard. In the final part I will be discussing the cherry blossom cut-out on the door panels and the wood coloring and finishing process.

For the cherry blossom design on the door panel I first drew and refined the full scale design on paper. After I was happy with the design, I placed carbon paper in between the drawing and the wooden door panel and simply traced the design onto the panels. What I was left with was a perfect replica of the design on the wooden door panel.

I then drilled strategically placed blade entry holes, to feed the scroll saw blade through. The panel was a bit large for the depth of the throat of my scroll saw, but with a bit of finesse and creative cutting I managed to cut out the cherry blossom without a hitch.

The above photo shows the contrast between just the brown walnut dye (right door) and the combination of both the walnut dye and the ebony stain (left door). I also masked off the center of the door for contrast, when I attach the cherry blossom cut-out at a later stage.

The finishing process of the completed sideboard, was a very intense and challenging process. It was essentially a 5 step process. First I had to put on a base brown walnut color to the entire cabinet and doors, except the fronts of the door panels. This was left to add contrast to the cherry blossom cut-out.

Then after the dye dried, I then apply an ebony stain to the sideboard, again leaving the door panels. This then completed the coloring process. It was then time for the finishing process. I applied 3 coats of a semi-gloss brush-on poly, lightly sanding between each coats.

Then after waiting for about 3 days for the finish to fully cure, I rubbed out the finish of the entire sideboard, by applying a rubbing compound and then using lots of elbow grease to "rub it out". This process essentially gets rid of any debris and blemishes in the finish and leaves the surface nice and smooth for the waxing process.

Speaking of the waxing process, that came next. I then applied paste wax to the entire surface and yet again using lots of brute strength and elbow grease I buffed the wax out to reveal a nice smooth, glassy surface.

Talk about intense! Phew! It is finally done!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Mokajade wood studio website

Hello All,

I have finally launched my new website. It is still a work in progress, but I am happy with the overall look of the site. The website is divided into categories by the function of each piece. For example the belt buckle seen on the right can be found under the "Personal" category. Also look out for the Home, Office, Wall and Furniture categories to find what you are looking for.

I will also be offering my scroll saw patterns for sale in the near future, so please check back periodically for updates. Not too much of a diyer? Let me do the work for you. Just send me an email with your custom request.

Please have a look at mokajadewoodstudio.com and thanks for looking!

Roshaan