Hi Everyone!
Well...here it is the finished shelf brackets! The pictures really doesn't do it justice. Hopefully my client will enjoy it a long time to come!
Thanks for joining me!
Roshaan
| Gluing the splines in place. I used some of the left over oak and sized them to fit the slots exactly. |
| Trimming the splines flush using my appropriately named flush-trim saw. I love this saw! |
| The freshly cut recesses for the hangers. Now all I have to do is drill some clearance holes for the heads of the screws. |
| At the drill press equipped with a 3/8" diameter drill bit, drilling the clearance holes for the head of the screws . |
| A close-up of the cove profile. |
| Continuing to cut out the rest. It was neat to see the negative scrolls coming out of the cuts. Hmmm ...I think I will do something with those...unless my client would like them as a souvenir :) |
| Checking to see if all the parts are square before I attach the paper patterns |
| Not only do I make sure that the wood parts are square I also have to make sure that the patterns are cut square to align to the wood blank |
| To join the scroll to the mitered brackets I use dowels in the appropriate sections for added strength. I use a dowel jig to guide the drill bit square and centered into the wood. |
| The drilled dowel holes. In this case I am using 3/8" diameter dowels. |
| Chou Chair-grad project a true labor of love! |
| The curve adds dimension to an otherwise flat piece of wood. |
| The buckle back hardware is attached using epoxy and is also screwed in place for added strength |
| To get rid of all the excess stain, I simply place it face up onto some shop towels. This also prevents excess stain from pooling and drying up in the corners of the cutouts. |
| I also stain the back of the frame and make sure to stain the interior orchid. |
| After the stain has dried, I get the pieces ready to be glued. To ensure perfect alignment, I made a simple right angle alignment jig. |
| To finish off the frame, I veneer the edges. I simply stain the edges afterward to complete the frame. To protect the frame I apply 3 coats of a spray polyurethane finish. |
| The routed out recess...we're not done with it just yet. |
| The recess cleaned up with the template removed. |
| To complete the recess, I drill some clearance holes for the head of the screw when hung on the wall. |
| Now that I have cut the interior orchid and the window of the frame, I carefully remove the top cut-out with a putty knife. This is a slow process, but it is the safest way I can think of. |
| I then use the table saw and miter gauge to cut miters on the back parts of the frame. These parts will help to provide clearance of the picture turns |
| A detail shot of the miters. Thanks for looking! Roshaan |
| I attach the top cut-out to the bottom part of the frame using double stick tape. I use some simple right angle alignment jigs to perfectly align the parts. |
| I then use the scroll saw to carefully cut out the orchid and the window of the frame. |
| Using an mdf template made to fit the frame precisely, I rout the recess or rabbet on the back of the frame which will house the glass, matted picture and back panel. |